Those frustrating walks with your dog putting you on skates are about to get easier! We talked about “The Mullet Method” in the first entry of this series. Now let’s put it to use and start teaching our dogs how to walk with a loose leash.

The concept we are working to teach our dogs is that when they keep the leash loose and move with us, it pays off for them. When they put pressure on the leash and start pulling, we go in the opposite direction of where they want to go.

The easier we make it upfront, the more we help them win, and the better your results will be. So I start with what I call “Move With Me” games. These “games” will help you and your dog stack a bunch of wins and build a bunch of value in being next to you with a loose leash!

The first game we’ll cover I have started calling “Moonwalking” and it is really easy!

Throughout this process you want to help your dog keep the leash loose (having a nice “J” shape at the bottom). Keep your leash hand in the same place the entire time, and keep the same amount of slack the entire time. 

Follow “The Mullet Method” rules by doing these steps with the leash attached to the front clip. Connect the leash to the back clip when you aren’t training (or let them off leash if you're in a safe environment to do so). 

And lastly, use the Push-Drop-Stick system to know when to move back & forth between the steps in this plan.

• Step 1

  • With your dog in front of you & a treat to their nose, walk backwards 1 step

  • Mark (YES) while they are moving & then pay

• Step 2

  • With your dog in front of you & a treat to their nose, walk backwards 3 steps

  • Mark (YES) while they are moving & then pay

• Step 3

  • With your dog in front of you & a treat to their nose, walk backwards 6 steps

  • Mark (YES) while they are moving & then pay

• Step 4

  • With your dog in front of you & a treat to their nose, walk backwards 10 steps

  • Mark (YES) while they are moving & then pay

• Step 5

  • Repeat steps 1-3 but with the treat held to your chest

• Step 6

  • Repeat steps 1-3 but with your treats in a treat pouch or pocket

Your dog should be moving with you well and with a loose leash after completing those steps! Walking backwards like this is a great way to lay a solid foundation for keeping that leash loose. Don’t worry, you’ll be walking with them normally soon!

The next game is “Get In Position” and teaches getting into a heel position on your left side (or right if you’d prefer. It really doesn’t matter unless you’re going into obedience for sport). 

Make sure you have your treats in your pocket or in a treat pouch. You want them on the same side as your dog, holding your leash in the opposite hand. This will make your treat delivery much easier.

• Step 1

  • With your dog in front of you, put a food lure to your dog's nose, keeping your right foot planted, step back with your left foot & lure them with the treat. 

  • Mark (YES) as soon as they are lined up with your left foot & then pay. Then pivot yourself back in front of your dog to reset for another rep.

• Step 2

  • With your dog in front of you, put a food lure to your dog's nose, keeping your right foot planted, step back with your left foot, luring them with the treat. Then step back into place luring them next to your thigh. 

  • Mark (YES) as soon as they are lined up with your thigh & then pay. Then pivot yourself back in front of your dog to reset for another rep.

• Step 3

  • Do the same as step 2, but with no food in your luring hand. 

  • Mark (YES) as soon as they are lined up with your thigh & then pay. Then pivot yourself back in front of your dog to reset for another rep.

• Step 4

  • Now do the same luring motion with your hand, but keep both feet planted while you guide them into position. 

  • Mark (YES) as soon as they are lined up with your thigh & then pay. Then pivot yourself back in front of your dog to reset for another rep.

• Step 5

  • Now you want to “fade” the hand signal a bit. Instead of putting it right to your dog’s nose, have it above them but motion your hand in the same pattern. 

  • Mark (YES) as soon as they are lined up with your thigh & then pay. Then pivot yourself back in front of your dog to reset for another rep.

• **NOTE: You can continue this plan and make the hand signal even smaller if you’d like. 
  

Now you should be able to use that final hand signal motion to get your dog into the heel position!

If you have issues with these game plans join my online learning community, Evolved Dog School, and make a post about it! I will gladly help you troubleshoot!